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A business trip provided me an opportunity to go for a one-day sightseeing tour of Madras. We booked the tickets well in advance, lest we were stranded ticketless. The bus was scheduled to leave at 6.00am from Madras railway station. I along with a colleague of mine, reached there at 5.45am. Despite the early morning, the place was abuzz with commuters for both bus and train. A man in a shop was drinking tea in a small plastic cup. The tea over, the cup was hurriedly thrown on the footpath. A man walking along merrily- came and kicked it. The cup found a new home, albeit a temporary one, waiting for a new hero to kick it again. Nearby, a man was gargling. His well-formed spit barely missed my friend. The man was not amused, but my friend started treading carefully. From a pan shop close by, I asked the shopkeeper for a mineral water bottle. He immediately pulled a polybag along with the bottle. I requested him not to give any polythene bags. With a gazed look, he conveyed his surprise. His looks said more than his words. I left with the plastic mineral water bottle sans the polybag.
After buying mineral water, we returned to the bus stop, where some more people had joined us. Among them were a group of three, one man, and two women. By the way of things, I guessed the man was accompanied by his wife and sister-in-law. Much as we found the girls to our liking, the bearded machismo looks of the man was quite daunting, forcing us to look for alternate pastures. To our surprise, we found two girls, all alone and almost of our age. One of the girls, presumably well-endowed, wore a red t-shirt and black jeans. The other girl was slightly leaner, and wore a blue denim jeans with a matching denim top. The girls found, my friend wanted that each of us selected one of them. Luckily, there was no tie, as I chose the first one, the one with the red t-shirt, and he chose the second. From then on, my friend sought every opportunity to get closer to the blue-one, and I to the red-one. Apart from these madrasi beauties, there was another girl, short and plump, who sat along with an old man. The man was too old to be her husband, and probably too young to be her father. We concluded that he was more likely to be her father. After waiting for nearly an hour, the bus finally left the place at around 6.45am. Loaded with a camera, tons of enthusiasm, and a bus full of divine beauties, we marched ahead in the anticipation of an exciting day ahead. The first stop was a temple in kanchipuram. Kanchipuram was a city known for its temples and sarees. And here we were in one of its most beautiful temples. However, due to more reasons than one, temples had ceased to occupy any importance in our lives. Thus, we strolled in the temple’s campus.
Ambling at our pace, we proceeded towards the main temple. The entry in the temple was free. But within a temple, the idol was cordoned off, and only a small gate allowed keen worshippers an entry. The gate bore the sign, “Special Darshan, entry fee Rs 5/=”. We wondered what was so special about that darshan. The idea was similar to the popular joke, where entry to a certain event was free, but the exit carried an exorbitant charge. Commercialization at its best. We did not bother to have the special darshan, and instead chose to watch the remaining lot take a special peek after paying rupees five. One of the worshippers then remembered what the tour guide had said when the bus started: “all entry fees are included in the tour charge.” The man, realizing foul play, started haggling with the guide. The guide, unperturbed, said the “special darshan” was not the part of entry fees. One could choose not to have it, and still relish the architectural beauty. Others did not found it meet to quarrel for the petty amount. The man finding himself isolated did not argue further. After spending nearly an hour there, the touring party started leaving the temple. Some thirty meters ahead of me I found a man sitting besides a stone. From that distance, the stone gave a strange appearance, as though it was a turtle. Coming a bit closer, I found myself in quandary, because the rock did not seem to be a rock. It was a convoluted piece of matter, god knew what. When I was barely few meters away, I realized that it was the man’s leg. The leg was almost a foot thick, and a meter long. I looked at the man’s leg, and then into his eyes. The man looked into mine, but I pulled mine away. But in that split second for which our eyes met, he said so much. “Now that you have seen this, give me something.” I wondered why he did not amputate his leg. But his eyes again gave the answer. It was the sympathy evoked by the leg that provided him his bread and butter. Some people earned through their knowledge, some through their skills. And this man through his special appendage. At an abstract level, there was no difference. I ran away from that place. Meters ahead were the two sisters who had somehow managed to break away from their brother. I took out my camera and shot a photograph. As soon as it was done, they turned back, probably sensing danger. I continued walking as though nothing had happened. We returned to the bus, and moved over to the next temple. The next temple too carried the same architectural splendor, had similar disfigured and convoluted remnants of human forms, and similar ambience. At the gate of the temple, we saw a man along with
his elephant. The elephant was trained to perfection. For every new visitor,
he raised his trunk innocently, seeking alms. The people were generally
obliging him by giving him one rupee coins. He accepted the coins and held
them tightly, releasing only when his master prodded him by a thin stick.
He also obliged the visitors by blessing them with his trunk. It appeared
as though he was the living incarnation of Lord Ganesh. His master behaved
in an equally majestic fashion, sitting smugly, and chewing sugarcane.
The elephant too, took a bite or two, relishing his job as well as his
breakfast. At times when the master was too busy to collect coins from
him, he chewed the sugarcane while holding on to the coins with amazing
dexterity. Fascinated by the proceedings, my friend asked for some change and I handed his a rupee. He gave it to the elephant, and I took his photograph. By then, our heartthrobs had also arrived on the scene. On the pretext of taking shots of my friend, I took their photographs too. My friends half-cut face was all I could manage. But then, between the aging face of my friend, and the beauties personified, the choice was obvious. Spending some time there, and enjoying the happenings, we returned to our bus. There, I was accosted by a salesman selling handmade leather slippers. The slippers looked good and I started bargaining with him. From 150, he came down to 80, and I thought I had done a good job. After I had given him the money, a person standing nearby asked if he could adjust the slippers a bit. I thought they both were together and did as requested. To my surprise, the man punched 10 pins in the slippers and demanded 2.5/= per pin. Imagine, buying new slippers and then paying almost 30% of the amount to get it mended. In a fit of anger, I said I would not accept the slippers. But he was unfazed. Realizing I had no options, I agreed to pay him twenty rupees. Nonetheless, I learnt how one could be looted in broad daylight, and that one had to be extra careful in dealing with strangers. To further my miseries, I later learnt that the same slippers were being sold at 40 rupees at another place, that too without any bargaining. After seeing the two temples, the bus took us to a
showroom that sold silk sarees. Since my marriage was on the cards, I took
that visit as an opportunity to buy a silk saree for my mom. I thought
of buying a saree for my would-be, presenting it to my mom thereby flattering
her, and then later, presenting the same to my would-be. After lot of searching,
I finally managed one. In fact, two. A silk saree worth two thousands for
my would-be, and another cheaper one, costing around four hundred rupees
for my mom.
After spending nearly two hours at the shop, we returned
to the bus. The guide had shown no urgency to get us back. Probably, for
every sale, he had a percentage involved.
It was nearly 12.30pm, and people were hungry. From the shop, the bus went for a long drive and ended at Mahabalipuram. The city was known for its rock-cut architectural splendours, shore temples, and rathas. But presently, the food was more important. The lunch was served at a government hotel. It was as good or bad as it could be. There was rice, watery dal, few chappatis, a couple of vegetable preparations, curd and sweet dish. My friend and I were having lunch together. Adjacent to us sat the software entrepreneur. She had that indifferent expression on her face. An expression which conveyed nothing, virtually nothing. My friend asked whether I wanted solitude. I declined. It was not warranted. The lunch over, we proceeded towards the shore temple. It was not as beautiful as the history projected it to be. In fact, it was not a temple, just an architectural artifact without any religious history or value. There again, I saw the same indifferent expression on the plumb software girl. I caught up with her and initiated a talk. Much to my liking she turned out to be a girl of my caste. I felt overjoyed, but she felt nothing. After a couple of minutes, I returned to the bus, leaving her to enjoy her isolated lifestyle. Near the bus, a man was trying to sell his ware to
a Japanese traveler. The Japanese was in a helpless position, as he could
not speak English - leave alone speaking Hindi. From his facial expressions
and the look of things, one could surmise that he was finding it extremely
difficult to get rid of the man. I thought of intervening, so as to settle
a price that was acceptable to both the parties concerned. Despite the
best of my intentions, my efforts backfired when the Japanese, seeing an
opportunity, ran away. The salesman thought I was responsible for the whole
episode. He was seething in anger and his eyes spat venom. His mouth joined
as he started verbal accusations. Couple of people standing nearby joined
the show “Accha saath diya upne desh waaaale ka“ (This is how you help
a fellow Indian by shooing away potential customers). I kept mum. Meanwhile,
the guy had picked up a stone and wanted to break my head. Any comment
from me and he would have hurled the stone. I avoided instigating him and
he kept abusing me in madrasi. Neither of us was at fault. But his wasted
effort, coupled with the fact that he had probably sick parents, or hungry
children at home, that made him behave in that bizarre fashion. The bus
started and he kept accusing me, waiting for me to instigate him. That
did not happen, and I left that place, safe and sound.
At the resort, around 16 people chose to ride the boat.
The remaining people either chatted in the bus or strolled around. In the
boat, I chose a strategic location so that I could easily photograph my
model. She sat diagonally opposite to me. As the boat started, I took out
my camera and started shooting the natural locales. Slowly, my camera drifted
towards her. Shooting a stranger, that too a girl, was very risky. I was
trying to be very careful. By chance if she had raised a tantrum, I would
have had to surrender the reel as well as the camera. Leave alone the possibility
of a public beating. But when I was convinced that no one cared, least
of all her, I shot her at my heart’s delight in all the sensual poses she
was offering me. I also shot a couple of photo for my friend who was more
interested in the slim damsel sitting next to her.
From there, we returned back. But all in all, it was a very exciting trip. Chachu (28/10/2000).
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